Horsemanship Portfolio

My Horses- These three horses are all very much progressing, as am I. They represent who I am as a horsewoman.

Dewey- Dewey is a 2007 standardbred gelding. He was bred and trained (briefly) to race, but never made it. Went back to his breeders as a two year old and I met him that summer. At 15, I was given a big, leggy two year old. I could sort of lead him, definitely couldn't touch his feet, and getting him to just stop moving was near impossible. He ignited my drive to learn. I grew motivation and determination. Very slowly, we brought each other along. A few years later he was diagnosed with suspensory desmitis, which is a degeneration of the suspensory ligaments in his hind legs. He pulled one quite badly, and I learned to care for such an injury. After a year of stall rest, hand walking and slow riding, the vet called his recovery miraculous. Dewey still struggles with strength in his hind end. He has maintained a base level of fitness for the last several years and is now in a program to build things up a bit more. The fitter he is, the more sound he stays. He has the ability to be very soft and through, and when he is his gaits are lovely. Above all, he is a wonderful friend that always seems to know exactly the ride I need.

Harley- This little quarter horse came to me as a lease in late 2015. I needed a lesson horse and he needed a roof over his head. I had known the horse a few years prior as a quiet gelding. It was a six month lease, and I knew if he didn't work as a lesson horse I could just enjoy him for the winter. He didn't work as a lesson horse. His previous lease was a barrel racing and gymkhana facility that was using him for kids. They told his owner that they didn't need him for the winter. The reality was that he was blown up. Essentially, he had gotten so anxious and wrapped up in anticipation that whenever anyone got on him he would rear, go backwards or go sideways. You could feel the worry pouring off him.

Lily

Horse Handling Standard Operating Procedures

Initial Handling

This starts within three days of birth. One person corrals the foal, while another person rubs the exposed side of the foal. Persons will be sure to rub the length of the legs, the ears, and the length of the belly. The two handlers switch positions, and the other side of the foal's body is handled. Clean thoroughly under the tail with a warm damp rag to expose the foal to that sensation and also to prevent skin irritation from the first few days of manure.

Haltering

As soon as the foal can be handled peacefully from both sides, the halter can be introduced. One person corrals the foal, while another stands on the same side with a halter. The person with the halter should take some time to rub his or her hands over the foal's nose and to rub the halter itself on the foal's neck and shoulder. When the foal accepts this, the person with the halter can slip the halter on to the foal's head. After buckling the halter, rub the foal on both sides and take the halter back off. When doing so, be sure that the foal is quiet and a hand stays over the bridge of the nose until the halter is off. Repeat these steps until the foal begins to seek the halter when the handler puts his or her arm over the neck and places the halter in front of the foal's nose. 

Leading

When the foal can be easily haltered and un-haltered, leading can begin. This process begins in the stall with a second person holding the mare off to the side. The handler should stand at the horse's shoulder. One can start on either side as this process will have to be done on both sides. Clip a lead rope (no chain) to the ring on the underside of the halter. Begin to ask the foal to turn his or her head to the side that the handler is standing on. Do not yank or force. Apply light pressure until the foal gives. Reward the slightest try. If the foal resists and pulls against the pressure, the handler should keep their hand as still as possible and not release until the foals stops resisting. Continue this process until the foal can reach its head all the way around to touch the handler. Before proceeding, this step should be done on both sides. When the foal can bend comfortably in both directions, the handler can put a hand on the off side shoulder. While applying the same steady pressure to the lead rope, the handler applies pressure to the off shoulder and takes a step in the direction that the horse's nose is pointed. Any weight shift of the foal in the correct direction should be rewarded with a release. Eventually the foal will begin to offer steps that are not only sideways, but also forward. Repeat on the opposite side. When the foal can walk around the stall in this manner, one handler holds the mare at the end of the barn aisle, while another handler walks the foal the length of the barn and back. If the foal should get stuck in its feet, the handler should use his or her hips to push the foal's shoulders to the side. This is called "untracking." If the foal bolts forward, the handler should bring its head around to take away the straight line. Back in the stall, teach the horse to back up off pressure from the lead rope. This will help to control the horse when leading out of the stall. When leading, the horse's head is next to the handler's shoulder. It is essential to create this rule for the foal. Continue to work with the foal in the barn aisle, out side, through doorways, through footing changes and to and from other horses. 

For a horse that already leads well, hold the lead rope with two hands and walk with the horse’s ears even with the handler’s shoulder. The hand closest to the horse should be holding the lead about 18 inches from the halter. Always use a chain when leading a stallion that is going to be breeding. Otherwise, use a chain on a case by case basis.

Handling (cont.)- Vacuuming, clipping, bathing, trailer loading

Vacuuming

Turn on the vacuum and approach the horse’s shoulder. Begin vacuuming with and against the hair. If the horse shows signs of agitation, stay on the shoulder until he settles. When vacuuming the back, take care not to push down on the spine. Additionally, be very careful when vacuuming the legs. Do not vacuum below the hocks or knees.

Clipping

Rub the horse all over with the set of clippers. If there is a cord, expose the horse to the way the cord will move in the process of clipping. Then turn the clippers on. If there are multiple settings, start with the lowest setting. The easiest place to start clipping is the bridle path. Place the clippers against the horse's shoulder. If the horse reacts, do your best to keep the clippers on the shoulder. As soon as the horse shows a sign of stopping or relaxing, take the clippers away. Repeat until you can rub the clippers all over the neck and shoulder on both sides while the horse remains relaxed. Then clip a 4-6 inch bridle path on the poll. For best results, work with the clippers a few minutes a day until the horse can comfortably have the running clippers touch all four legs and the head. Whether a horse is new to clippers, or not, it is always best to start at the shoulder and slowly work toward the place that is to be clipped.

Bathing

Approach the horse's shoulder with the hose and rub his or her shoulder. Turn lukewarm water on at medium pressure. Let the horse sniff and touch the stream of water with its nose. When the horse relaxes slowly bring the stream of water toward a front hoof. When the stream of water hits the hoof, the handler must follow the hoof with the stream of water until the horse has stopped fretting (if he or she did get upset). As soon as the horse offers to stop, remove the stream. Proceed in this manner until all four legs can be hosed. When this is successful, move on to the rest of the body. Even if a horse has been bathed many times, always start by hosing the legs. Once the entire body is wet, turn off the hose and curry and sponge soap into the horse's coat. Do one side, rinse, then the other side. When rinsing the mane, it is very important to keep the stream of water pointing toward the horse's rear. Water in a horse's ear can disrupt equilibrium and cause the horse to lose its balance. To wash the tail, massage shampoo into the top 12-18 inches of the tail. Then take a bucket of soapy water and dunk as much of the tail as possible. Horse's may become frightened when they feel the bucket against their rump. When rinsing the tail, slowly bring the hose up the legs so as not to surprise the horse with water on their tail head. Rinse from the top of the tail, down. Gently wring the tail out. 

Lunging

Attach a lunge line to the circular ring under the noseband of the halter. Make sure that the halter is adjusted appropriately. Walk the horse to the lunging space. It is best to bring a whip. It may not be necessary, but it is better to have one and not need it. Choose a direction to start with. If the horse is going to track left first, start by standing on the left side. Ask the horse to move away and forward. As the horse begins to circle, feed the lunge line out. It is important when exercising a horse on a lunge to let the circle be as big as is safe. If the horse has already started to trot before he or she has taken up the length of the lunge, that is fine. If not, wait until the circle is the appropriate size to ask the horse to trot. Keep your body behind the horse’s shoulder. Length of work out depends on variables such as horse’s ability and fitness level, daily schedule, time of year, and others. Consult with a supervisor if you are unsure. After a trot interval, some horses can be cantered on the lunge. Ask the horse to slow its trot a bit and pay attention. Then ask for the canter. Repeat this on the other side.

Wear bit

To begin, choose a bit that is of appropriate size for the horse. If it is a long yearling or two year old, choose a smooth, loose ring check bit so as to not overwhelm the horse with the amount of metal of a regular snaffle. Tie a piece of shoe lace to each ring of the bit. Next, put a few drops of molasses on the bit. One person should hold the horse's lead to guide the head. This person should allow the horse's head to move, but not allow the head to swing side to side. The person with the bit should let the horse smell the bit. Stand facing the same direction as the horse, in the position that one would if bridling. Once the horse has smelled the molasses, he or she will likely willingly take it in his or her mouth. Hold a ring in each hand and act as a guide for the horse. Once the bit is in position, wait a few seconds, have the handler pat the horse, then take the bit out. Do this a few more times until the horse begins to seek the bit. Molasses may need to be reapplied. When the bit is out of the horse's mouth, take the string on the bit ring and tie it to the halter. Guide the bit into the horse's mouth and tie the other ring to the halter. Tie it in a way that the bit is slightly lower in the mouth than one would put it when bridling a horse. 

Wear harness

Make sure that all parts of the tack are easily accessible. Make sure that the horse is clean under the tail and is free of sores of any kind. Place the surcingle over the horse’s withers. Unless the horse is going to be hooked to a cart, tugs are unnecessary. The only pieces of equipment attached to the surcingle should be the crupper and the breast strap. Bring the breast strap around the front of the horse and attach it to the D ring under the rein guide. If a martingale is necessary for the exercise, put it on next, before you fasten the girth. Secure the girth loosely. The greener the horse, the more increments one should use to tighten the girth. Next, put the crupper under the tail and adjust to the appropriate fit. When setting the tail down over the crupper, make sure that no tail hairs have been caught. Deliberately step the horse forward or back a step to ensure that the horse feels the harness and its confinement. The horse is now ready for a bridle.

Bitting exercise

Harness and bridle the horse. One person stands in front of the horse and holds it. The other person attaches sidelines. Sidelines connect the bit to the harness. One may, or may not, run the sideline through a running martingale. To begin, they should be relatively loose. After lunging the horse for a few minutes in each direction at the walk and trot, tighten the sidelines. Tension depends on the horse’s age and level of training. The horse should be lunged in this setup at the walk and trot. If above the age of three, the horse may canter.

Long Lining

Harness and bridle the horse. A martingale and a check should not be used for the first couple of sessions. When setting up the long lines, one person should stand in front of and hold the horse. There are many ways to set up the lines. Consult a supervisor to determine which set up. Drive the horse into the work space at the walk. Be sure to walk behind the horse far enough to be out of the kick zone. The working distance between driver and horse should be about 15 feet. Walk, trot and halt the horse in both directions. Take care when changing directions. If done too abruptly, these transitions can make the horse quite anxious. More advanced horses may canter in long lines.

Drive

Harness and bridle the horse. Set up driving lines in the appropriate manner. This will change depending on the horse and level of training. When the lines are attached to the horse, the excess line must either be held by someone, or be put up on the horse’s back while someone stands at the horse’s head. Lines must not be on the ground, ESCPECIALLY with a green horse. While one person holds the horse, another person should place the blinker hood on the horse. Every horse must be driven in a blind bridle. Some bridles have leather blinders. In this case, a separate blinker hood is unnecessary. The horse can now be driven out to the space where it will be hooked. The ‘header’ goes to the horse’s head and stands directly in front of the horse. The horse’s head should be held by the reins on either side of the head. A second person should ready the harness to be hitched. Check the tightness of the crupper, ready the wrap girth (if being used), and place a kick strap over the hips (if necessary). A third person brings up the cart. This person should let the horse know that the cart is coming up. The cart shafts need to be raised above the horse. This way, if the horse moves, it won’t hit a shaft. The two people hitching should communicate about getting the shafts into the tugs. The end of the shaft should extend beyond the tug by about a foot. Then the traces should be clipped to the breast collar. Next, each side takes ahold of the wrap girth. The header can ensure that it is even on both sides. Wrap the wrap girth based on instruction given. If there is a kick strap being used, attach this to the cart. The driver should then take the lines and carefully get in the cart. When the driver is ready, the header slowly leaves the horse’s sight, keeping a hand on the horse’s neck for a few seconds.

Saddle and saddle bit

Just as with the harness, properly groom the horse before saddling to prevent discomfort or sores. Place a saddle pad appropriate for the saddle (western or English pad) on the horse’s back. The front of the pad should cover the horse’s withers. Before putting the saddle on make sure that the girth and martingale (if necessary) are within reach. Put the saddle on the horse. Lift it high enough above the horse’s back so as to not push the pad off. Never drop the saddle on a horse’s back. Seat the saddle where it will sit with a rider and briefly check the fit. This is a 10 second check that can save a lot of trouble later. Slide a hand under the front of the saddle to make sure the horse’s shoulders are not being pinched. Look to see that there are a few inches of space between the pommel and the withers. Finally, the cantle of the saddle should be higher than the pommel. If there seems to be a problem, consult a supervisor to determine if there is another pad that can be used or if the saddle just won’t work. When you have determined the saddle fits and is in the right place, secure the girth on the first or second hole on one side of the horse. On the other side, fasten it so it touches the horse, but is not tight. Before going out into the work space, tighten the girth a hole or two at a time in several intervals until it is tight enough for work. We do it this way to ensure that a horse does not get girth sour. Next, bridle the horse. Attach a lunge line to the bridle. Clip sidelines to the bit and back to the saddle if necessary. These lines should start fairly loose. Walk the horse to the work space and lunge in the same manner as described above. Part way through the workout, after the horse has had a chance to warm up, the sidelines can be shortened. The stirrups may be allowed to flap or they can be tied up.

Ride

Saddle and bridle the horse. Attach reins to each side of the bit. Pull down and adjust the stirrups to the appropriate length. Put a well fitting helmet on. If riding alone, the best time to do this is when the horse is still tied, before the bridle. Lead the horse to the mounting block. It may be necessary for some horses to be held while the rider mounts. Once the horse is lined up to the mounting block, stand on top of the block and pat the horse. Grab mane and rein and swing up. It is best to take a contact of the near side rein before getting on. This way, if the horse tries to walk the rider can bend him to a stop. Once on, with feet in the irons, ask the horse to walk. From this point, each ride will be different.

Aftercare

After any type of work no horse should be put away without being properly cared for. If the horse has elevated respiration, keep walking. Once respiration is normal, tack (if applicable) can be removed. If the horse has not sweat, harness and saddle marks can just be brushed off. Check that the girth/crupper has not caused a rub. If the horse only has sweat under the saddle/harness, towel or curry these areas. If the horse has sweat more extensively, sponge the wet areas with a dilute liniment solution. If weather and training level permit, the horse may be hosed off. Sweat scrape and then towel all wet areas. Pay close attention to between the back legs. This area is easy to miss and sweat buildup there can cause tail rubbing. If it is less than 55 degrees, put a cooler on any horse that has been sponged. The cooler can be removed when the horse is dry. Tie the horse in its stall or give it hay to prevent rolling in the cooler.